Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
